Tonight will be my first night in the hostel in Buenos Aires, and even without having experienced the nightlife, I already get what the hype is about. However, for better or worse, I understand it as a new Yorker; or rather, the things that I have fallen in love with already are the things that makes it similar to new york, and the things I love about my own city.
But this realization is not without others. For example, ive never considered myself much of an architecure person. Ive never studied it, and never repented not having studied it, so its been really suprising that the two places Ive really enjoyed thus far have been the places where the architecure has made a really impression on me. But ive found that rather than being impressed by the individual stucture or its mechanial features, I’m instead impressed by the aggregated physical aesetic that it contributes to the look of the city. The buildings in viña were a constant reminder that we were close to the playa, and that the people, despite the dismal politics and history of their country, could disassociate and embrace the gifts of their locale.
In Buenos Aires, the streets in between the big avenidas remind me of that classic upper west side block- between central park and Columbus, the ones when you walk down the center of the street the trees form a canopy over the rows of tightly parked cars, and only peripherally can you see the stoops and upper levels of brownstones. On the more central streets, theres an abundance of Italian-influenced buildings, with semi-juliet balconies and some novice stucco work…but very reminiscent of that building on the corner of 71st and broadway that you can see from the McDonalds corner. Again, its not that I find this style anything special, but only that it creates an urban aesethic that I relate to, and also one that I find particularly pleasing.
Although the cab driver who transported me to my hostel was less than friendly, im finding the staff at Rancho Urbano more than accommodating. The guy who checked me in gave me a host of things to do (including estimated sites of exhaustion), but I took to walking the main avenida, and gradually making my way to San Telmo, the acclaimed bohemian section of town. I encountered of a lot of independent designer boutiques- very sporty and colorful harem pants etc. The only thing that ive found regrettable about south American thus far is that the concept of an ice coffee is not only foreign but incomprehensible. And also the only thing that I crave in extreme urabn heat like this. There is nothing like walking around with a container-size cup of dunkin donuts coffee….wow, I didn’t think a MORE American phrase was possible. Alas, I managed to finagle one out of semi English speaking barista, and needless to say it hit the spot..and more.
I assume that each barrio has its own plaza central, but I doubt they have the duplicated sensation of those in traditional pueblos- tomorrow, cate and I will investigate. I’m thinking that we’re going to see Palermo tomorrow, the proclaimed Soho of Buenos Aires. It was exceptionally hot today, regardless of the fact that I was ill equipped by wearing jeans and boots.. all I know is that im doing the argentinian citizens a favor by sparing the sight of my re-opened bug-bites wounds that procured on the farm…ill think of it as the immigration impuesto that Argentina does not require.
The lights went out in the hostel and theres no internet. Thankfully, the fan is still working. Actually, im looking for a stronger word than thankfully. Mercifully?...Hm, too religious.
So its me and an un-opened bottle of wine, plus three Americans of still unidentified origin and age, although they don’t appear to be travelling together. One of them laughs like Mr.Schwaebach from high school. He’s older than the others and feels semi-out of place in the bohemian travelling culture. Outfitted in archeologist gear, in addition to his complete ignorance of the Beatles leads me to believe he’s into something with science- the nerdy type that recently finished med school, if not residency, and has just taken to travelling and the hostel culture.
The other guy just goes, “Its nice to come from one of the most prosperous countries in the world.” Oh man, I gotta get out of here.
miércoles, 27 de enero de 2010
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Haha, can't say I remember mr. schwebach's laugh.
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